Recommended Models/Series:
Whangee Cane Fit-Up,Peeled-Oak Root-Nose Fit-Up,Bark Blackthorn Root-Knob Solid Stick Umbrella,Polished Solid Stick 系列,City Umbrella with 兽首系列,City Umbrella with Whangee Cane Crook,London Umbrella系列,Pencil Umbrella with 兽首系列
James Smith & Son坐落于伦敦西区新牛津大街53号,是家地道淳朴的卖伞商店——没错,诚如JS& S的资深店员所言,JS&S是一家卖伞的商店,他们从来不把自己当作一个正经品牌。不过,谦虚归谦虚,James Smith & Son依然是United Kingdom最具代表性的伞具企业之一,甚至是顶级伞具制造商中规模最大的一家。
James Smith & Son由James Smith创立于1830年,近两百年来一直以家族式的经营存续。1851年,JS&S将店面迁入新牛津大街,此后店铺从未搬迁、从未改造,至今仍保留着维多利亚时代的经典装潢,也因此成为伦敦最古老的商店之一。虽说不像Swaine Adeney Brigg那样拥有皇家认证,但JS&S在United Kingdom的知名度也丝毫不逊色于前者。19世纪塞缪尔福克斯发明了福克斯金属伞架(Fox Frame),用轻质金属取代了过往欧洲使用的鲸骨伞架,当时James Smith & Sons就是首家将该设计投入伞具制造的店家。
James Smith & Son的制作工坊就位于商店地下,作坊共有5名制伞师傅,平日里店中约有3名,顶级的Solid伞需制作一周左右,普通的手工伞一天可制作数把。制伞师傅基本上都是家庭内部世代延续的手艺。JS&S向来热衷在手柄上发挥想象力,除了最具特色的动物雕件手柄,不时也会有More造型古怪的伞柄上架。
James Smith & Son的雨伞品类众多,从折叠伞到直柄伞、从顶级的全定制伞到普通的钢杆伞、从经典男士伞到颜色鲜艳的女士阳伞等无所不有,甚至还有种类繁多的绅士手杖。径入JS&S的商店里,可见各式雨伞手杖密集地挂满整个陈列室,越往深处走,伞的品质与价格就越高。首先是平价的钢杆伞,价格最高也仅两百英镑出头,最低可低至一百英镑以下。钢杆伞顾名思义,其伞杆为金属材质,质地轻薄,伞冠可以紧紧贴合,伞身形态纤细,这类伞通常被称为“Tube”。JS&S的伦敦系列、城市系列和铅笔系列都是Tube伞,其中城市系列品质最佳,采用10毫米钢管和尼龙伞布制成,在Tube伞中质量偏重;伦敦系列则采用8毫米钢管和涤纶伞布,质量最轻。
Tube umbrellas are usually equipped with classic curved handles such as Malacca white vine, maple, chestnut wood, leather, etc., and are also available with distinctive animal carved handles. Beech wood carved animal head handles are more expensive, around £230 per umbrella, and the woodcut lines are clean and quite rustic. The inexpensive animal head handle (around £100) is usually made of acrylic or resin, and the workmanship is mediocre, but it is lightweight, fun and pleasing in shape. In addition, there are a few folding forms to choose from, and the price is relatively high.
The second is the Fit-Up model, in which the handle and stem are made of two pieces of wood separately and then merged together. This umbrella is very strong and durable, and in some cases, the seams of the handle and stem are so tightly processed that at first glance it looks like it is molded as a single piece. The handle materials of this type of umbrella include Malacca white vine, oak, cherry, hazelnut, moso bamboo, etc., the most popular of which is Wangee moso bamboo. These umbrellas generally cost between £200 and £300. The top-of-the-line umbrella is, of course, the Solid model, the handle, stem and tail are made of a single piece of wood, and the wood is of high quality, usually made of acacia, elm, hickory, oak, maple, ash, etc. The handle of some of the wood is designed to be peeled, and the wood core is exposed, which is peculiar.
JS&S提供定制服务,客人可根据自身需求选择伞杆材质、伞柄材质,决定添加纯银伞领与否、添加刻字与否,Fit-Up与Solid的雨伞可加工至适合顾客身高的尺寸。中高端伞款的伞布基本都是尼龙材质,颜色选择多样,一般蓝、灰、绿色的尼龙布料会是较为传统的United Kingdom风格。此外,由于James Smith & Son把自己定位为雨伞商店,因此在JS&S的商店或是官网里也能买到Fulton、Knirps等平价伞具。JS&S的实体店接受Bespoke(完全定制),不过线上渠道只贩卖上架商品,这意味着你在网络订购时所能得到的定制化服务程度有限。