With a history dating back more than 100 years, Dong Tai Xiang is one of the first shops in Shanghai to make fried food. Dong Tai Xiang's production techniques and the vanished old shop "Luo Chun Ge" have some similarities, quite old-fashioned, they all use the method of semi-fermentation, Dong Tai Xiang also successfully applied for the title of "Shanghai Intangible Cultural Heritage Protection Unit".
Similar to the dispute between the sweet pie and the fresh pie in Xiaolong, there is also a strict factional division within the raw fried food, which is divided into clear water pie and muddy water pie according to whether the meat filling has soup or not: a small amount of skin jelly is added to the filling of the Qingshui pie or no skin jelly at all, which is also called "meat heart gang" by Shanghainese; The muddy water pie adds more skin jelly to the meat filling, and the soup is large, and it is also known as the "soup heart gang". According to the fermentation form, it is divided into full fermented raw decoction, semi-fermented raw decoction, and non-fermented raw decoction. According to the direction of the pleats, it is divided into upwards and downwards.
The semi-fermentation process of Dongtaixiang is not simpler than the full fermentation process of Dahu Chun. The so-called semi-fermentation is to let the dough rise after it has been filled. Proofing time is highly correlated with climate, temperature and humidity, excessive proofing will make the dough sour, and insufficient proofing will cause the dough to be too dead, and the lack of soft taste after raw frying. The optimum temperature for semi-fermentation is 20-25 degrees Celsius. In the early years, Dong Tai Xiang would close the restaurant when the weather was bad and there were fewer diners, mainly to avoid bad taste. On the one hand, with the progress of science and technology, the temperature and humidity in the kitchen are more controllable; On the other hand, the number of diners is increasing, and demand exceeds supply.
The ratio of stuffing and skin in Dongtaixiang is not 1:1 like that of Dahu Chun, but the filling is slightly more than the skin. The meat filling is also made from the front leg meat, with jelly and soy sauce. The lid of Dong Taixiang's oil pot is also made of wood, but it is also covered with a special layer of iron sheet, which, according to the master, prevents steam from escaping through the cracks in the wood. Dong Tai Xiang will record the whole process of production in detail, and each pot of raw fried has its own identity: including proofing time, frying time, when to add oil, when to add water, and so on.
High-quality raw frying can still ensure the crispness of the bottom after it is cold, and the top will not collapse, and Dongtaixiang's raw frying meets such requirements. The pan-fried looks round and very plump, with black sesame seeds on top. The skin is much thinner than the big pot spring, but it is still soft. There is no too strong sweetness in the meat filling, and it is mainly salty and fresh. The soup is not much, the portion is moderate, and there is no splashing sensation. The bottom is crispy and golden, and there is no over-fried and charred texture.
Dongtaixiang on Chongqing North Road is its flagship store, with the longest history and the oldest qualifications. The semi-open kitchen is filled with transparent glass so that diners can see the whole process. The interior decoration is a little dim, and the number of seats is not much, so there will be a lot of waiting time during peak hours. Fortunately, Dongtaixiang is open 24 hours a day, and even if you have a late-night supper, there is a supply of raw frying, as for whether it is just out of the pan, it depends entirely on luck.
