This dish is a low-born market dish, which is a collective creation of the old city of Shanghai in the late Qing Dynasty and the early Republic of China, and has only a history of more than 100 years.
During the Guangxu period of the Qing Dynasty, a number of low-end home-cooked restaurants serving the common people began to appear in the Huajie City Square of Shanghai, and most of their chefs came from the Sanlin and Chuansha areas of Pudong, which made these local restaurants have a common kinship in taste. The taste of local local cuisine has been gradually polished and polished in the old city, and finally it has become a set of cuisines with its own style characteristics - local cuisine. The predecessor of the old hotel in Shanghai, "Rongshun Pavilion", is an important representative of this period, founded in 1875 by Zhang Huanying, a native of Chuansha, and later called "Old Rongshun" to distinguish it from the new Rongshun Pavilion. In 1965, Lao Rongshun moved to the current site on the west side of the old town god temple on Fuyou Road, and officially changed its name to "Old Hotel".
The old restaurant in Shanghai has a very high status in the cuisine, which should be partly due to the late Li Borong, the master of the cuisine. Shanghai is known as "Shanghai chefs out of Pudong, Pudong chefs out of Sanlin", Li Borong is born in Pudong Sanlin "Shovel Gang", his father Li Lingen is one of the founders of another time-honored restaurant "Dexing Restaurant", Li Borong has been studying under the famous chef Yang Hesheng of Dexing Restaurant since childhood. After the liberation, Li Borong was transferred to the Green Wave Corridor and the old Shanghai restaurant to work for a long time, and during his tenure as the chef of the old restaurant, Li Borong systematically sorted out and improved the techniques and recipes of the classic dishes, which had a far-reaching impact on the stereotype of the local cuisine, and laid the benchmark flavor characteristics of the old restaurant for decades to come.
The kitchen team of the old hotel in Shanghai is relatively special, they are basically more or less under the tutelage of Li Borong, the chef team is stable and close, and the old hotel has a natural advantage in terms of skill inheritance and quality standards. At present, there are about 70 first-line chefs in the old restaurant, of which 7 percent are Shanghainese, and the current head chef, Luo Yulin, has more than 20 years of experience in local cuisine. The old restaurant has its own kitchen on each floor to ensure the speed and temperature of the food to ensure the maximum speed and temperature.
Li Borong's line inherited the "standardized" practices of local dishes such as herring bald lung and eight-treasure duck, and the old restaurant in Shanghai has become the best choice for tasting the old-school famous dishes. Eight treasure duck, is one of the old restaurant dishes, choose about three and a half catties of Huzhou white duck, open the back stuffed into three to four taels of glutinous rice, and then into the ham, belly, meat, chicken, chestnut, ginkgo seed, scallops, glutinous rice and other materials, twice into the furnace, steamed for five hours, the meat is fragrant and glutinous. Herring bald lung is the heirloom of Dexing Pavilion, which is not often seen on the market at present, it is necessary to use cod liver into the dish, one to use up 8 to 10 herring, and the old restaurant can only make one or two copies a day, and it needs to be booked in advance. Shrimp and black cucumber, dregs bowl head, dregs fragrant casserole big fish head, etc., are also rare dishes in other local restaurants, which are labor-intensive and time-consuming, and the products of the old restaurants are traditional and stable.
There are two versions of the old restaurant, namely the ordinary version and the mini version, of which the mini version of the three wires is the improved version of Mr. Li Borong. The so-called buckle three wires, that is, ham shreds, chicken breast shreds and bamboo shoots are stacked like a hill, ordinary buckle three wires are the thickness of toothpicks, and mini buckle three wires are the thickness of cotton yarn, only three chefs in the restaurant will make this dish, limited to 20 servings per day. The ordinary version of the buckle three wires does not need to be pre-ordered, and the three wires are spread out when eating, soaked in the soup, and the freshness does not lose the mini version.
Fried shrimp is also a classic of the gang, testing fire skills, which can best reflect the stove skills of a restaurant kitchen. The fried shrimp of the old restaurant is made of Jiangsu fresh river shrimp of uniform size, each of which is about 7 cm, and the oil temperature is 200 degrees and the pan is cooked, the shrimp gills are hot until slightly open, and the shrimp shell is fried until crispy and loose, and the entrance is fragrant and tender. The old restaurant has also adjusted the sweetness of fried shrimp, and the three sweet seasonings of white sugar, rock sugar and honey have replaced the original single white sugar, making the sweetness more smooth and more reflective of the details of the taste. Grass head circle, Xiangyou eel silk, braised river eel, Babao hot sauce, etc., the old restaurant is steady, although it is not perfect, but it is full of old hotel pie: the grass head circle is green and tender, the circle is thick, and the aroma is full, but the grass head occasionally sees miscellaneous stalks; The silk of the oil eel is killed alive, and the woks are full of gas, but the amount of white pepper is less; The braised river eel is fat and tender, with rich layers; The Babao spicy sauce is orthodox, the juice is neat, and the color and taste are good.
Shanghai Old Hotel is located in the Yuyuan Garden business district, with a splendid appearance and a warped cornice, which is quite conspicuous. The first floor of the store is the reception, the second and third floors are the individual guest halls, and the third floor is a row of private rooms, with a bright environment and no loss of heritage. The restaurant's service is commendable, and it is different from the image of a cold and idle state-run hotel. Welcome, lead the seat in a serious and orderly manner, the hall waiters are many young and middle-aged women, with a warm and kind attitude, a cordial smile, and rich experience, when ordering carefully to remind the details, with a long time of dishes, the waiter will remind in advance, serving, adding water, clearing the table in a timely manner, the sense of scale is excellent. All aspects of the service are sincerely hospitalized, which is rare in the state-run time-honored brand and even in the entire Chinese food world. If you are interested in tasting classic local dishes, Shanghai Old Restaurant will be the safest choice.